I was sitting at Cape Disappointment the other day looking out at the water.
No waves to speak of. Nothing dramatic happening. Just one of those beautiful mornings where sitting there feels like a perfectly reasonable thing to do.
And for some reason, I started thinking about surfing.
I grew up in Southern California. There was a time in my life when I could look at a decent set of waves and my first thought would have been:
I need to get in there.
Not what a beautiful ocean.
Not what a peaceful morning.
Get the board. Let’s go.
That was me.
And I loved that guy.
But sitting there at Cape D, I realized something.
I don’t particularly want to be that guy anymore.
Maybe I’m just done with that.
And strangely enough, that doesn’t make me sad.
We talk a lot about what we shouldn’t give up
Especially as we get older.
Keep moving.
Keep your strength.
Work on your balance.
Stay curious.
Get out of the chair.
Keep doing the things you love.
Hell, I say some version of that almost every day.
And I believe every word…
